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You know what. It’s SHOCKING what I can come up with when I’m left unattended! ⚡️ This is why I need an adult 🤣

So i take it you drilled 2 access holes in the side bars then 3d printed some liner sleeves? Or are they clip on electrodes?

Yup. Just to insulate the grub screws from the tube. There is a small lip on the little clip thing just to catch the bars edge so it doesn’t rotate when tightening the grub screw. Made the tolerance tight so the plastic expands a bit when the grub screw is driven so it grips the tube.

I’ll take a pic of one of the “clips” when I get to my desk.

2 snaps, slight diff angles. Should be able to see the shape better. Drilled 6mm holes in the sides of the tube. Push one of these onto the hole, screw in a M4 grub screw, as the hole in these spacers are slightly undersized it forces the plastic to deform and kinda mushroom head on the other side

Of the tube, stopping the clip from falling out. It will still come out, but needs either enough force to to shear the mushroom head off, or remove the grub screw and its pushes back out. Think I’m happy with how I’m attaching the wire to the screw. Need more testing.

But atm I’m putting a ferrule on the end of the stranded wire, trimming it to size, flattening it and inserting it in the hole before the grub screw and letting plastic deformation hold it in place. Seems to be working well so far. Need to test fatigue.

but another attachment method for the wire i'm thinking about trying is, longer grub screws, a ring connector, and a nut to secure the ring connector to the "outside" of the grub screw.

Pop rivet with a ring terminal on the back side of the insulator? When popped its all in there? Then again you may not be able to get the tool in... ignore me!! Lol

Did think about using a pop rivet, but a few issues came to mind 1) (as you pointed out) its hard to use a pop rivet with the "smooth" side inside the tube. 2) Hard to adjust, with a grubscrew we can more easily fine tune the position, 3) its rather permanent, not the end of the world, but if

we wanted to remove it outside of "play time" your left with the rivets and cables (I am planning on adding a connector to the shock unit anyway, because I foresee the cables being a consumable). Another chose would be M4/M3 nuts and bolts, and a insulator (like the clip I am already using.